Ĭarbon Arrows and Carbon/Aluminium Composite : Light and Stiff with smaller diameter than just Aluminium, this means they go further plus have less side wind drift and the arrows are faster with less rise and fall on the way to the target. Once you are shooting 70m, 90mor 100 yards or more then you should probably think about Carbon Arrows. Aluminium arrows are the most popular place to start with your first bow and when you are shooting the shorter and medium distances.Įaston Neos : excellent entry level arrow: one diameter of shaft for all different lengths,Įaston Jazz and Tribute Models 75 Alloy: Better arrow : greater shaft hardness and selection of diameters for different lengths and stiffness.Įaston XX75 Pla tinum Model 75 Alloy: Better again: A favourite of many archers good hardness but still able to take some knocks without being too brittle.Įaston X7 Eclipse: Best Hardness and Straightness: The top aluminium arrow.Įaston X23 & RX7 : Big diameter arrows for getting higher scores for indoor competition You pay more for increasing hardness of the alloy and better straightness tolerances which in turn provides more accuracy. There are also different models at increasing price. There is a wide range of sizes available to suit almost all sizes of archer and strengths of bow. Also these are used by most people for indoor shooting as they are strong, accurate and reasonably priced. Usually used at the Leisure end of archery.Īlumini um: Made from light weight tubing: These make a very good reliable and relatively easy to use arrow for shooting at the short and middle distances outdoors. Which one to choose? Here is a brief guide to what most people use and why.įibreglass: Robust but heavy: Will take a lot of knocks. There are arrows made of Fibreglass, Carbonfibre, Aluminium, Wood, and Aluminium/Carbon Composite. With these two measures Weight of Pull and Length of Arrow, it is time to look at the Arrow Types and Arrow Charts to see which size and typeof shaft will fit you best.
#Arrow spine chart pro#
We have the means to do this inour Pro Shops. You can of course use a set of scales to actually measure the draw weight. If you draw 27"then you will be pulling less at about 28lbs. Usually you can add 2lbs per inch of draw, so for 29" draw that would be 32lbs.
Then you will be pulling more than 30lbs when you pull the bow beyond 28".
#Arrow spine chart full#
Your arrow length when at full draw is 29". Usually on the bottom limb and for a given draw length.Įxample: Recurve Bow is marked 30lbs 28 " on the bottom limb.
The draw weight of the bow will be marked on the bow. Second work out the pulling weight of the bow at you draw length. See this Video of an Arrow Leaving a Bow to see why you need to get the arrow stiffness right.įirst find out your draw length : This depends on your arm length and also on where you pullback to and anchor with you drawing hand. I have only gone thru about 4dz of the shafts I am shooting now, and while they still show stiffer than marked, every shaft from 3 different sources has been within 10/1000ths of an inch of each other.Once you select your own Bow you will need Arrows to suit it and you. 400spine by GT!!!! By using the spine tester with the GT's, I eliminated the "flyers" before they made it into my quiver. 350-.380 range I would occasionally get a shaft in the. I would still have to throw a shaft away every now and then because instead of the normal. I started running all my shafts thru the spine tester and grouping them in 10/1000ths of an inch groups. Then I got the spine tester, and my eyes were opened. Every once in a while I would get an arrow that would fly so cockeyed that I would just have to throw it away. When I first started shooting the GT's, I did not have a spine tester. In fact, there are some that are so far off, it is rediculous! For what they cost, the quality control should be better, IMHO! The issue I have with them is that they are not tightly spine matched. I have shot a gazillion critters and won a bunch of shoots with them.
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